Thursday, 16 May 2013

Solar Array

When you see a narrowboat chugging along the canal you can often tell the ones with a modern diesel engine. They're the quieter ones where people are talking to each other without the conversation being interspersed with "WHAT?" or "COME AGAIN!" or such like. You also can tell the ones with a traditional engine as these invariably have an entire room dedicated to the engine, with hatches open to show off the gleaming brasswork to those of us on the towpath who can only dream of ever having such a magnificent machine chug-chugging away as you deafen the local wildlife.

We break the mould a little bit here by having an electric motor; whilst not completely unheard of on the canal system, the vast majority of narrowbots do not have electric motors. They have deisel engines. Diesel engines rev lower than petrol ones, so they will provide high torque at low revs (which is useful when driving a propeller). Deisel engines are tried and tested, reliable, common technology. So there are many advantages to having one on the canal.

 Why then, did we decide to go for an electric motor? That, my friend is a very good question. The main appeal to us was the cost saving. We will never have to buy deisel, and you may have noticed that fuel prices very rarely go down. So we should, in theory, save a substantial amount of money on that front. Additionally there is the environmental consideration. Burning fossil fuels is bad for us all, what with more air pollution, the increased likelihood of spilling deisel into the canal, the smells, etc. You know the score. With an electric motor we reduce the air pollution to pretty much zero, the chance of polluting the water with deisel is zero, there are no smells after a days cruise.

Now I'm not claiming the environmental impact is zero. After all the processes involved in manufacturing batteries, solar panels and motors can't be ignored. But it's nice that on a personal level we are limiting our impact to our immediate surroundings.

Before: Panels laid flat on the roof
Previously the panels were just laid flat on the roof, but this doesn't allow us to tilt them towards the South in winter so with the new cabin (more on that to follow at a later date) we decided to have some mounts fabricated to hold the solar panels that we use to charge our batteries. Most boats will have one or two panels to keep a leisure battery topped up, however our batteries have a much larger capacity, so we have 8 panels. On a good day you can cruise indefinitely without running out of power as the panels are replacing what you're using for the motor.

Mounts along the left of the roof, Sophie driving at the back
We went to visit Johnny (the same one who appeared in a photo in Blacking Up) on his boat Gyptian to buy some 6mm cable and set about mounting and wiring up the panels. We figured 6mm cable would be overkill but I'd rather over-specify to be on the safe side when it comes to electronics. Plus Johnny picked up a reel at a good price and passed that saving onto us so we only ended up spending £25 on cable.

I'd taken apart the wiring on the old panels so had a vague idea what I was doing. In theory it is fairly straightforward. You know how you put two batteries together in your walkman making sure that the positive end of one goes to the negative end of another? Well this is the same. But I was trying to wire up as we were mounting the panels as it was easier to wire them face-down. So every time I came to wire another panel I found I'd forgotten what the cable I had in my hand was for. Queue much unscrewing of junction boxes and re-checking of terminals and constantly repeating the mantra "positive to negative, positive to negative" and eventually I had everything wired.

Panels laid on the roof getting wired up
 In order to reduce the number of holes in our roof I decided to route the cables through a mushroom vent (see photo above). All of which are positioned under the solar panels. Convenient eh? You might even think we'd planned it that way! It also means that because the vents are sheltered heavy rain can't bounce up off the roof and come in through the mushroom vents. Not a common occurrence, but in full British summer one that I imagine would be fairly annoying.

The first pair mounted and wired
At this stage you are left with two ends of a cable that could, potentially, give you a bit of a shock. I left Sophie outside, posted the cable through the vent and headed inside. Very carefully poking cables into the connections without touching anything that might be live was a little interesting but everything went in without resorting to swear words and before I knew it we were drawing 26 amps.

4 pairs all mounted and wired

It's very satisfying to when you take something you know very little about, take it apart, replace and simplify the the wiring, and it still works when you put it all back together again! Add to that the fact that we can now tilt the panels rather than propping them up on paving slabs and paint cans - yes we actually did this, sorry - and the fact they are more secure now they're actually physically attached to the boat so stealing them is harder and the likelihood of having them blown off the roof (this has happened in the past, damaging the connections) is greatly reduced and you end up feeling pretty satisfied with yourself! AND I'm pretty sure all of the cable outer that I stripped off made its way into the bin.
Wing nuts allow the panels to be adjusted by hand

The view from the front

Monday, 13 May 2013

Blacking Up

There comes a time in every boat's life where you have to accept the inevitable and admit it's time to redo the paint on the hull. This might not sound so bad until you realise that the paint is bitumen based. In case you haven't had the dubious pleasure of using bitumen based paint - it's pretty horrible stuff. It doesn't wash off your skin unless you scrub it with white spirit. It sticks in clumps in your hair if you're unfortunate enough to get any on your head.

Anyway, it was some time ago when John Gray was last blacked and its been in need of doing since we bought her so we decided it was time to bite the bullet.

The basic blacking technique goes:
  1. Drive boat into dry dock. Or in our case VERY carefully drive boat into dry dock with listed status as we're suffering power issues - more on this another time - and can't stop very easily. Oh and did I mention the canopy that we just fit under? Well we had to avoid clattering that too.
  2. Drain water out of dry dock. This part is easy. Someone else handles it whilst you keep an eye on the boat.
  3. Get down and dirty with the pressure washer to remove all of the algae, freshwater mussels and crud that's accumulated over the years.
  4. Get down and dirtier with scrapers to remove whatever the pressure washer couldn't.
  5. Paint the hull.
  6. Wait. Drink beer, go to sleep, have lunch...
  7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you have achieved the required number of coats. Or you have run out of beer.

I don't have any pictures of taking the boat into the dock as I had other things on my mind than what I'd put on the blog at the time, but here are some that you might find interesting...

"Matt, stop faffing with the camera and pass me the pressure washer!"
Pressure washing the hull
This is what scraping off 60' worth of paint will do to you
Matt and Mum making good progress
Sophie and Dad making more progress
Johnny welds on new anodes.
Our work here is done. Refilling the dry dock was oddly nerve wracking as you re-float the boat.
"Is it full yet?" There wasn't much clearance between the canopy and the roof (it got a lot closer than this but I was too preoccupied to take photos!)


Big thanks to everyone who came and helped, especially to Matt,  Mum, Dad, Amy, Loz, Helen, John, and Polly. You made the painting go much faster and the weekend go more smoothly!

And now some hopefully useful information for anyone else who stumbles across this blog in their search for information on blacking. The first time you have to do it you'll have a thousand differing opinions on what you should do but in the end it generally comes down to cost. Ideally every time you came out of the water you'd shot blast the hull back to bare metal and reapply your blacking. Plenty of people will advise you do this, but good luck finding somewhere that will be happy with you shot blasting that doesn't cost a fortune.

We decided to go with a branded bitumen based paint as they claim to have better resistance to pollutants in the water (e.g. deisel spills) which will break down normal bitumen paint. This also allowed us to apply over the top of the existing bitumen based paint without having to take absolutely everything to bare metal.

The paint we used was Rylard Rytex ordered from BoatPaint.co.uk, we ordered 25 litres to cover a 60' narrowboat with three coats. 20 litres might have just sufficed but we wanted to be sure we had some spare.

Big wallpaper strippers are very useful but if you're using the little ones then make sure you get stiff ones and not the flexible ones.

Obviously once you've done your research, bought your paint, brushes, scrapers, booked the dock, etc, etc. everyone will come out and tell you how you should use 2-pac instead, or get the whole thing shot blasted instead of using a pressure washer. Ignore these people. YOU have made a decision based on what YOU want to do with YOUR boat.

Good luck!